Tami Archer, Gilpin County. Almost 100 years ago, history was forever etched in rock and stone with the monumental opening of the Moffat Tunnel. In 1928 (the year the tunnel saw its first train
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Tami Archer, Gilpin County. Almost 100 years ago, history was forever etched in rock and stone with the monumental opening of the Moffat Tunnel. In 1928 (the year the tunnel saw its first train make the trek), the concept, design and construction of this engineering marvel was nothing short of ground-breaking. The six-mile-long tunnel would be the longest railway tunnel in existence in the entire country at that time, and it remained the longest non-electrified tunnel until 1956. The ventilation alone was cutting edge. It took four years to successfully bore from the East Portal to the West Portal, and an additional 12 months to complete the project after that.
For those five years, the East Portal was a bustling community of folks from so many different walks of life. They were creating stories that tell the true history of this grand endeavor. It is widely known and highly publicized that Gilpin County’s main “claim to fame” firmly rests on the shoulders of John Gregory and the Great Gold Rush in 1859. While this is likely true, the ongoing emphasis on this single part of our history is creating a darkening shadow over another equally important part of our history.
It is said that over 1,600 men worked around the clock on construction, but what about the other folks who called East Portal home? The families of the workers were certainly a part of the story, but there were many others, too. There was a school, a hospital, shops, a mess hall, and gathering places – even a movie theater! The people who were part of the support network played just as big of a part as the tunnel workers themselves, yet their stories have been buried in time and overshadowed by the grandeur of the tunnel itself.
Those stories played out nestled in the security of the buildings that were so strongly assembled by the same hard-working, dedicated folks that built the tunnel itself. Although most of the town was slowly dismantled once the tunnel was complete, five cabins were left standing. Those cabins housed families for almost another 80 years. Children were born in those cabins. They were nurtured and loved by families who continued to depend on the existence of the railroad for a livelihood.
One of those families was the Ornelas family. In 1952, Nick and Dora decided that the East Portal was the best place to raise a family. Nick agreed to live in a wooden box car on rails in the beginning. He worked for the railroad for two years, and then moved his new bride into one of the cabins that still stands today. Nine children followed that path. The memories are rich and storied.
Suzi Ornelas recalls fondly shoveling snow when she was just a child. She clearly remembers when her dad put in the satellite dish (which still stands today) so that they might have more than just Channel 2 to watch. Suzi remembers that she met her husband at East Portal in 1989 because he was working for the railroad, keeping those trains running. She smiled thinking about the bridge from the parking lot to the cabin they lived in that her husband Beni built to make it easier for the kids to bring in groceries. She remembers that the last bunkhouse (built in the early 1920s) was still standing when she was young, because her Momma Dora would make lunches every day and take them up to those who lived in the bunkhouse. Ornelas also has memories of when the Rio Grande Railroad believed that maintaining the last cabins was important. “The B&B (Buildings and Bridges) gang would come and fix doors, and windows, and whatever else needed to be minded to” she recalls.
Ornelas laughed when she shared that Beni took apart a waterbed to make a shower and some shelves to make the cabin they lived in more “home,” and noted that the shower, and the shelves, are still there today. A silent testament to the stories that are still contained within the walls. She recalls having a neighbor fetch her and her siblings and ferrying them down to Rollinsville to catch the school bus to Nederland. She also remembers when school was the yellow schoolhouse in Tolland. Ornelas has fond memories of when East Portal was so much more than just an assembly of abandoned buildings at the bottom of a recreational trailhead.
The opening of the Moffat Tunnel had impacts that are not commonly thought of as being a result of the railway. A perfect example of this is Lincoln Hills. It wasn’t long after the tunnel was finished two entrepreneurs began developing Lincoln Hills, with a vision that the proximity and convenience of rail service would open up a recreation opportunity for African Americans in Denver. Lincoln Hills flourished, and the railway ensured that many families, even generations of families, would be able to escape to the mountains for rest and relaxation. This relationship is still apparent today. The recently rehabilitated cabin of the Jackson family proudly bears the name “Zephyr View.” It is a testament to the Zephyr train that shuttled the families between Denver and Lincoln Hills. Ornelas remembers taking that train through the tunnel to the West Portal, to enjoy the opportunities that were on the other side.
The tiny community of Pinecliffe was actually established in 1903 as a service camp for the rail workers who were then constructing the Moffat Road over 100 years ago, and yet today has a post office and many year-round residents.
The East Portal Cabins have been basically abandoned since the early 2000s. During the last 20 years, they have fallen into disrepair and sadly bear the telltale signs of being disregarded and ignored. Vandals have repeatedly and disrespectfully abused the once-proud structures, leaving behind dejected, stark reminders of how we have seemingly turned our backs and deaf ears to the many stories of those that once called them home.
Too many historic treasures are being allowed to succumb to demolition by neglect in Gilpin County. These important locations and buildings have so many stories left to tell, and tragically those stories are being silenced under the unbearable weight of disregard and neglect. The laughter of children from long ago is being stifled under the stoney silence of ignorance, and the history that is no longer being shared and revered has become shrouded in a cloud of grief.
In 2020, Colorado Preservation, Inc. added the East Portal Camp Cabins to its list of Colorado’s Most Endangered Places. This recognition clearly demonstrates not only the critical state of the cabins, but more importantly, the commitment of others to saving them! (You can watch the video here - https:// youtu.be/_ HyvOOltP4k)
On May 18, 2023, the Gilpin County Historical Preservation Commission (HPC) listened to an impassioned plea put forth by Historian B. Travis Wright, MPS. Wright is not only the Vice Chair of the HPC, he is also an extraordinary champion of the entire Rollins Pass region. He reminded us that once the voices of the past are silenced, they cannot be reawakened. His emotional request that the remaining cabins be given Local Historic Landmark Designation did not fall on deaf ears, and the HPC unanimously voted to recommend to the Gilpin County Board of County Commissioners that this recognition (and protection) be bestowed on the cabins. Wright pointed out that the local designation will open up a plethora of grant funding which can be utilized to restore the cabins, and not only honor, but continue to share, the stories that they hold within their deteriorating walls.
Ornelas also recalls the day that she had to close the door on her legacy. “I felt an overwhelming sense of emptiness. I was so numb that day. How could I just walk away from what has shaped my family for generations? I was so reluctant to leave, because I was leaving behind so many memories. I was certain, as a young girl, that my family would live here forever.” Ornelas was the very last person who closed the very last door to the East Portal Cabins, with a heavy sadness that still resonates with her to this very day. “My parents only had a 2nd grade education, but the hard work, perseverance and determination they had made sure that we would survive.” And survive they did, but now this last piece of history, of legacy, is in grave danger of being lost forever.
On Tuesday, June 13, the cabins will ride out their last best hope on the backs of, and in the voices of, those who still have hope that this downward spiral can be reversed when this request is heard by the Gilpin County Commissioners. With approval of Local Historic Landmark designation, the champions like Wright can continue to fight the battle to save the cabins, save the history that they represent, and work to ensure the voices are heard, shared and appreciated for generations to come.
“Rehabilitation of the cabins could provide adaptive reuse options that would benefit several potential partners while saving this important remnant of one of the most important achievements in American engineering history.” -Colorado Preservation, Inc.
“A society is defined not only by what it creates, but by what it refuses to destroy.” -John C. Sawhill
“People only know what you tell them. If we choose to no longer tell people the stories, the stories no longer exist.” -Suzi Ornelas